Restaurant Review: Propeller, North Fremantle serves some of the best Middle Eastern flavors in WAI

There was a furor on the TikTok video last week, and it had nothing to do with the viral courtroom antics of Johnny Depp and Amber Heard.

In a much healthier use of the video-sharing platform, one user showed off a beautiful swimming spot with turquoise water and picturesque rock pools not a person from miles away.

People enjoyed the images. However, they were not fond of their refusal to share where it was in the comment section.


Within hours, however, videos were floating about where she swam and how to get there.

We love to use the word hidden gem and feel like we’ve discovered something extra special when it comes to places to eat and explore, but in a social media-driven world, chances are hundreds are familiar with the same secret.

Camera Icon Propeller: Sambousek, Cinnamon Steak Turnover ($12) Credit: Jade Jurewicz

I may have described Propeller as a hidden gem a few years ago.

Despite being open since 2014 and loved by many, it can be easy to miss in its little pocket of North Fremantle. And as good as it is, it doesn’t always get a lot of praise.

Chef Kurt Sampson can make anything taste good, with bold Middle Eastern and Levantine flavors, although the sole I’ve gently tasted is the one dish I’m in no rush to try again.

We started with the sambousek (think small meat pie) cinnamon beef turnover ($12) on this visit.

Camera Icon Propeller: Tomato, mozzarella mouse ($15) Credit: Jade Jurewicz


It was an unusual but delicious mix of sweet and savory, tender meat with a hint of cinnamon, wrapped in crunchy pastry and dusted with a powdered sugar mix. A dipping sauce probably isn’t a traditional addition, but cit ould have elevated it even more.

The tomato mozzarella mouse ($15) looks like a simple mini pizza, but with quality ingredients on a light base, you can’t expect much more from the dish.

Squid with harissa, tomato-olive dressing ($22) made me love the protein again. Having had some average riffs lately, the charred preparation on this one with a thick and salty ‘dressing’ studded with capers and olives was perfect.

Camera Icon Propeller: Silverbeet fatteh, chickpeas, tahini yogurt, chili butter ($18) Credit: Jade Jurewicz

On the slightly heavier side, the Silver Beet Fat, Chickpea, Tahini Yogurt, and Chili Butter ($18) was a warm and wintery dish with buttery beetroot and a toasted top, the color and texture of which reminded me of the best corner pieces of lasagna.

The grilled fish (rankin cod the night we went) with spiced tomato couscous ($38) was a just-cooked piece of tasty fish on a bed of flavorful couscous.

So in the spirit of no gatekeeper’s good stuff, here’s the address for this prime location that you’ll want to keep your little secret


Address: 222 Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle

The verdict: Bold and moreish food was very well cooked. The service is friendly and prompt, and the interior, designed by a local architectural firm, matches the original shipping container and garage.

Rating: 8.5/10

John D.Mayne
I love to write. When I wasn’t writing for my school newspaper or college blog, I was writing personal essays and journal entries. Then I discovered I loved to write. In college, I wrote for my school paper and my campus radio show. I started doing freelance writing for the Huffington Post in 2009. Then, I joined the team at Newsmyth as a writer/editor. Now, I spend most of my time writing for Newsmyth and as a guest blogger on a handful of other blogs. When I’m not writing, I like to read, travel, cook, and spend time with friends.